Le 6 mai 2016, 04:33 dans Mode • 0
Aleksandra Bąkowska we met on the set of Project Runway, but did not give us to forget after leaving the program. In January this year set up a blog of fashion, moving these problems the textile industry, which we do not talk every day. It's the designer and activist explains what is ethics in fashion, dragging the reader on the green side of the force. However, Ola is not limited to writing or creating eco clothing from recycled materials. Among its activities, aimed at raising awareness of modern consumers, you can replace the numerous debates and trade fair dedicated to the fashion fair trade.(cheap formal dresses melbourne)
ELLE.pl: How did it happen that ethical fashion so heavily influenced your life?
Ola Bąkowska: I think each of us knows where he comes from mass-produced clothing. Often, someone mentions that her neck "small Chinese hand" and people hear it nervously laugh. I think that laugh, to drown his helplessness and guilt. However, not all reflect on this every day. Me alone the first, deeper reflection bowed Erasmus trip to Finland during the study of fashion design at the Academy of Fine Arts in Lodz. It turned out that the foreign school places great emphasis on the theoretical and professional knowledge, with a particular apprenticeship to work. Men of lecturers are people actively working in the profession - a big plus! In turn, the subjects chose for yourself, so I found the classes devoted to issues of ecological and ethical fashion. The classes dedicated supply chain for the first time, I learned how the case is in a world of global corporations. It gave me a lot to think about - I decided to create a clothing exclusively from national, local fabrics. Designers usually do not make the effort to find out where they come from materials used by them! And here it is worth to pay attention to the relevant certificates.
ELLE.pl: Do you think that being "eco" can benefit from the offer chain stores. What to look for when shopping to make better ethical choice?
OB: It is worth to buy as little as possible and prudent. Personally, I do not follow trends, I am rather faithful to its style. I do not buy things you can not imagine to wear every day or several events. In his closet I have, for example, a jacket from Zara, I wear four years! We are eco when you buy sensibly, we are eco, when we buy a little.
ELLE.pl: Until now encourage national chain that from month to month to buy new trends every season and change your style. However, some fashion giants slowly changing their tactics and encouraged to be eco selling clothing fair trade. What do you think about "green" actions on the part of well-known brands?
OB: In this project I see with a grain of salt. Why? Because despite the fact that there are positive, hide behind second base. Well-known chain stores do not brag about things, which fall to the truth average. I mean controlling the working conditions in their sewing, especially in the case of such great production. As indicated in its report Fashion Revolution, at this point there is still much to do! So far, the best in this regard fell Levi's, Primark, H & M, Chanel ... and the worst! So is it possible that the true legends of the famous fashion houses sewing in Poland? Unfortunately, this probably also the fashion giant relies on the cheapest production.(formal cocktail dresses)
ELLE.pl: What do you think about promoting the national chain of recycling? Two weeks ago, consumers have the opportunity to do something for the environment thanks to the stock World Recycle Week, organized by H & M.
OB: Clothing Drive is something that many sieciówkach zagościło permanently, as it does for example. Calzedonia stores. Such action, as Recycling Week H & M is sure to give profits to the customer, because each person brings clothing receives vouchers for shopping in the store. But I'm worried about the fact that the Swedish local network or organizing such an event in the course of the organization Fashion Revolution commemorating the greatest industrial disaster in sewing clothing Rana Plaza in Bangladesh. It does not look to me on the case! Even fanpage involved in the action star M.I.A. She was flooded with questions fans why collaborated with H & M. In the end, her songs relate to the global crisis, immigrants, poverty, or racism, and she is active and activist speaks incorrectly politically. Better known to the company stopped working in white gloves and actually przyłożyły to their environmental activities, and not the publicity in the media.
ELLE.pl: So, if we are dealing with green washingiem? How wyjaśniłabyś this term?
OB: I recommend you read "Sustainable value" Chris Laszlo, a book written from the perspective of the employee of a large corporation. It very accurately describes this mechanism. Now companies is much easier to pay more for organic cotton, polyester, recycled or recycling clothes of their customers rather than physically track the millions of T-shirts, which are sewn somewhere, because it is a difficult process and long-lasting. Well, for example, even through pictures of a green field, you can change the image of the brand to a more eco, which aligns the balance of advantages and disadvantages. I also recommend the book and film "Gomorra" about the Italian mafia, which also appears theme of great fashion houses referring to the long tradition. There's owners do not even know that their subcontractors are sewing, they work for the Chinese. Important operation three years ago, has taken the brand H & M, which first published a list of its subcontractors. It was a step on a global scale!
ELLE.pl: How is it with Polish designers? Or buying clothes for them contributes to being eco-consumer?
OB: First of all, it is worth asking whether things organic, made with certified fabrics, and the conditions that prevail in sewing. I support buying Polish clothes of Polish designers, because after all it will be a more reliable purchase. However, for our customers, these things still seem to be too expensive, and therefore more willing to enter the power cables. Besides, the trend of the Polish brand has a real breakdown in the larger cities. Well, that this is fashion and promoted by the media, but it is still a tendency prevailing in a certain group of consumers who can afford it.
ELLE.pl: Ethics in fashion also touches on the rights of animals. Natural fur thing of the past, thanks to such coalitions as the Fur Free Alliance. But what of real leather, which in sieciówkach is more and more? Is it better to choose synthetic alternatives?
OB: Top leather limit the amount of things that we buy. Synthetic leather, in my opinion, is unfortunately not an ecological product, and even harmful to the environment. For leather works for many years, but behind her a lot of suffering. If leather products are made in Europe, it would be easier for us to inspect the conditions in which they are grown for the skin of animals. It is a duty of government! Odradzałabym buying leather clothes imported from Pakistan or China, because there does not comply with the standards for the handling of animals. And when it comes to action Fur Free Alliance, it's amazing that even Armani joined the world's top designers, who say stop futrzarskiemu industry. Cool!
ELLE.pl: How is the matter of buying a second handach?
OB: This fashion comes full circle, is definitely a "lesser evil". In my closet there is no lack of clothing from the 70s, which bought the second Handzia my mom. Wool, leather and other natural materials recycled can be used for many, many years. Once it was a completely different expense and quality, than now, when we buy new things.(school formal dresses)
ELLE.pl: On your blog you mentioned about the internship, which odbyłaś Honest by Bruno Pieters. What gave you the experience of working for the brand, which even strictly observes all the rules of a responsible fashion?
OB: Company Bruno is a brand one hundred percent transparent - every detail, even the paper, which are made labels used in the factory, a certified company. All this information is available on the website of the brand. Used raw materials: organic, European, vegan or certified ... It was there I saw how difficult it is to reach the European suppliers of buttons, sliders, or fabrics. Typically, these are companies from Italy! This is an extremely difficult industry. During the internship I met up with a situation where a German company creates Bruno prints, with a closed water circuit and certified paints, suddenly withdrew from the market because they did not pay it. At that moment we could not find another contractor. Often producers from Italy, and Spain, also reluctantly entered into a deeper cooperation and did not want to disclose accurate information about how and where to produce. However, the fact that such companies exist, is a very good sign.
ELLE.pl: What do you think about CSR in Poland? Do people become more aware of what is ethics in fashion and what an important role it plays in society?
OB: It goes forward, it is happening now very much on this issue. In the world of fashion Polish increasing this awareness. Brands implementing CSR strategies should be primarily LPP, which after the scandal in the media after the crash Rana Plaza 3 years old, have decided to take concrete steps. At the moment the site contains a bookmark with social responsibility. The company itself plans to implement to sell the collection of organic cotton. Of course, a major impact on such decisions from fashion giants have non-governmental organizations, which emphasize the improvement of working conditions in sewing for example. Clean Clothes Campaign. In Europe, it organizes many markets with ethical fashion, for example. Mint in Amsterdam, where each brand must fill out a long questionnaire, on the basis of which carried out the selection. The demand for ethical exhibitors grows, consumers increasingly interested in the origin worn by their clothes, fabrics, or materials made from recycling. We do not want to come out of places routinely violates the human rights. Polish brand should therefore brag that they have their own sewing in the country - the customer will appreciate it, so develop the local industry.
ELLE.pl: So, what can we do as consumers to improve the situation on the fashion market?
OB: Today's industry has many problems and shortcomings. If we do not buy things from European manufacturers, it will soon disappear. It put a real quality and long tradition, that does not lead to abuse that prevail in Asia, or Africa. Not without reason sewing practically no longer fall in Europe, because here no one allowed himself to slave treatment. Our situation is more comfortable, we feel that we always have a choice. It is apparent comfort resulting from the fact that some jobs are exported outside Europe. Personally, I support organizations such as the example. Amnesty International and the action "Send a spy to the shoe factory" created by the Foundation Buy Responsibly. It is to them I organized two open debates and small fashion shows fair-trade, where they could talk with szwaczkami from Cambodia and the situation in the Polish sewing. Mutual is pleased to announce and invite you to cooperate.
ELLE.pl: What events related to ethics in fashion should follow in the near future to better familiarize themselves with the subject?
OB: I recommend the film festival Millenium Doc Against Gravity. For him, already on May 15, there will be workshops upcyklingowe, where I will have a conversation about ethical fashion and recycling. The repertoire of the film will also feature documentary "Out of fashion" for clothes produced from recycled materials. But on May 10 I am going to the conference for. Ethical fashion - Copenhagen Fashion Summit. Exclusive relationship straight from the event will appear on the ELLE.pl.